Monday 29 December 2014

Lagan Valley Regional Park



A New Year’s Walk in the Park

After all the festivities celebrating Yuletide followed by the jollity of marking the end of the year, what better way to start January than a healthy gulp of clean fresh air.  It’s hard to think of a more pleasant place to refresh the lungs than the local park.

Location location location

How lucky are the citizens of southern County Antrim to have a back garden like Lagan Valley Regional Park.  I am fortunate to live within walking distance of one of the park’s principal parts, Belvoir Forest.

Although it is the only part of the UK to have no National Parks, Northern Ireland has this one Regional Park.  At its closest point, it is only a couple of miles from the centre of Belfast. Few other cities can claim to have such an impressive area of open space – 4,200 acres.  
It extends for 11 miles from its inner suburbs to beyond Belfast’s city boundaries[1] all the way to Lisburn.

 

In times of financial austerity, it’s reassuring to remind ourselves that the best things we have are free.  
Lagan Valley has all we need to make us happy.  As a public park, it is the perfect place for running, cycling, walking, canoeing, as well as archaeological discovery, social, cultural and family events.  
The Park has attracted over a million visitors in each of the last three years (more than the Giants Causeway and Titanic Belfast).[2]

It has a rich variety of parklands ranging from dense woodlands to manicured gardens and estates with ancient specimen trees and it supports a wide variety of wildlife.   
Lagan Valley has enormous historic interest, providing a microcosm of the wider region’s development.  
No wonder that it was recognised with the designation as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in 1965 and as a Regional Park in 1967.

Town planners sagely refer to open spaces as the city’s heart and lungs.  On this basis, the rational conclusion is that Belfast must be a very healthy city – even if one or two parts of its anatomy are not necessarily in such fine fettle.

Irish Oak

Belvoir Forest is home to the oldest recorded oak trees in Ireland.  Many are over 300 years old.  The oldest specimen (1642) pre-dates the Battle of the Boyne by a half-century.  According to Dr Ben Simon, this  
“is the oldest date so far found for any tree in a woodland in Ireland.”[3]  

He adds that the largest of these veteran oaks, known affectionately as Granddad, 
“is a massive squat hollow tree with a circumference of 8.8 metres just above ground level making it one of the largest oaks in Ireland.”

Researchers from Queens University Belfast have carried out research to establish such facts in a project entitled “Quercus” (Latin for oak).  I like the subtlety of using Latin, whose first two letters also happen to be the university’s initials.

Our Irish oak tree has additional significance.   It is emblematic and used in many place-names. 
It is the symbol of County Londonderry, as a vast amount was covered in oak forests.  The county’s name derives from the Irish Doire, meaning oak.  
Other examples include the village Edenderry which lies in the Lagan Valley Park, and which was an important centre in the Irish Linen industry.

According to the Woodland Trust, Northern Ireland has only 6% woodland cover.  Finland has 73% and the European average is 45%.  Our emerald isle is, ironically and sadly, one of the least wooded countries in Europe.   
Yet everybody knows that we need native trees to help combat climate change and improve our environment.  We have a lot to do to catch up.

Step forward Sean Citizen.  The Lagan Valley Regional Park office runs projects promoting volunteering, such as tree planting and removing invasive plants (“balsam bashing”).  These eager beaver volunteers have collected 13,000 oak acorns for replanting.  
Another project is the Wildlife Monitoring Project.  Ordinary people are involved in surveying park life ranging from bats, butterflies, birds, foxes, frogs and squirrels.

Red squirrels

Our native red squirrel is a candidate for membership of the club of endangered species. The threat comes from the American grey squirrel, which has adapted so well that it is winning the competition for survival.  Greys were introduced inadvertently to Ireland in 1911 when a group of them escaped from a gift hamper given to a woman at Castle Forbes in County Longford by the Duke of Buckingham[4].

In response to the crisis, voluntary Red Squirrel Groups were established in Tollymore Forest Park in County Down, the Glens of Antrim, the Sperrins in Counties Tyrone and Derry, and in Lagan Valley.  Despite the efforts, the sad news is that reds have disappeared from the Lagan Valley Park.  None have been seen since 2011.

The grey marauders are better at finding food and shelter. They forage so ruthlessly that they damage trees.  
Greys are so greedy that they devour buds and shoots of trees before they are ready for consumption. I have seen them do this in Belvoir Forest on hazelnut bushes and on larch trees, the staple diet of our little reds. Greys even wipe out birds by robbing their nests.

To make matters worse, the grey invaders also spread the squirrelpox virus to which they are immune, but which kills reds.  In April 2011, it was reported that this deadly virus has been positively identified for the first time anywhere in Ireland.  The specialist Moredun Laboratory in Edinburgh confirmed it as the cause of death of a red squirrel in Tollymore Forest Park.  The following month, BBC Northern Ireland’s Newsline television programme reported that seven reds have died from the disease in Tollymore Forest Park.  
It’s going to take more than voluntary work to tackle this pressing problem.

A couple of years ago, Belfast Zoo established a red squirrel nook as part of a wider initiative to protect endangered native species.  Recent reports about success in the breeding programme provide some cautious grounds for optimism.

Birdlife

Taking our minds off the elusive red squirrels, birdlife in Lagan Valley Park present a brighter picture.   
The musical sounds of great tits can be heard trilling “teacher teacher.”  The even more melodious blackcap can sometimes be heard singing like an operatic diva.  
I have also seen starlings, blue tits, thrushes, coal tits and, on occasions the rare and mouse-like vertically moving tree creepers. For me, however, the heron is the most majestic bird in Lagan Valley as it perches itself statuesquely yet with hidden menace on a strategically placed branch protruding from the water.
The Park is also home to other animals like foxes and rabbits.

Threats

Ben Simon describes Belvoir Park as the “prime example of a woodland under threat.” He says that the wooded former Demesne with its collection of veteran oaks is “of regional importance, and yet there is a plan for a bus route to be constructed amongst the trees.”  In which case questions arise about the sustainability of the Government’s transportation strategy.

In recent times, another threat has led to the felling of 6500 larch trees in the forest.  The Department of Agriculture’s Forest Service took this radical action following the discovery of the Phytophthora ramorum disease.  It is understood that the plan foresees natural regeneration as the best way for the Park to restore its population of native trees.  
In the short term, however, the visual impact has been emphatic.

A major reason for the success and popularity of the Lagan Valley Park is the fact that it is very well managed.  The LVRP charitable company which organises events, educational tours, applies for funding, organises the volunteers - and much more little-heralded work - is currently under threat because of proposed cuts to its budget by a Government Department. They do this on a proverbial shoestring. 
Wiser minds than this author are campaigning to persuade the authorities of the myopic folly of their ways. It does seem paradoxical economic theory to fix the nation's budget deficit by penalising voluntary work.

The Giants Ring

One of the most impressive aspects of Regional Park is its archaeology.  This ranges from the ancient to the relatively more recent industrial revolution of immediate past centuries. 
How many cities have a 4800-year-old ancient monument on its doorstep?  The Giants Ring predates Machu Picchu, Delphi and the Parthenon.  It was built at the end of the Neolithic or the beginning of the Bronze Age around an earlier Neolithic passage grave.  It consists of a circular enclosure, 200m in diameter, surrounded with a 4metre high earthwork bank with 5 entrances, and a small neolithic passage grave.   The tomb is believed to date from 3000 BC, and the bank slightly later. 

The Park also contains raths (late iron age/early Christian period monuments, usually 25-30m diameter).[5]  One such rath sits prominently, yet inconspicuously, across the road at one of Belfast’s busiest roundabouts, at the House of Sport.

The Canal Towpath

The Lagan Canal Trust[6] has published a guidebook about more recent archaeology explaining the history of the canal, from the start of its construction in 1756.
It includes information about the linen industry, which gave the canal much of its raison d’être, with mills at Hilden, Lambeg, and Edenderry.  It also contains maps of the towpath extending from the Kings Bridge at Stranmillis all the way to Warren Gate Bridge in Lisburn.

Kathleen Rankin tells the story of the linen families and their great houses[7]. As she says, Lagan Valley was an agriculturally fertile area and was one of the first to be settled in the Plantation of Ulster in the early seventeenth century.  She adds that for nearly 250 years, linen yarn and cloth were produced in great abundance in Lagan Valley.  
Belfast was known as “Linenopolis.”

May Blair has recorded the oral history of the Lagan Canal[8].   
She brings to life the daily existence of people who lived and worked alongside it, having scoured libraries, old newspapers, Government archives, and photographs. 
Most tellingly, she interviewed lock keepers, lightermen, haulers, canal-side farmers, and families.

For example, she describes meeting James Rafferty’s widow Lizzie when she was 94 who, when asked if her husband had been a lighterman, she replied proudly  
“yes – and I was a lighterwoman.”
Lizzie told her about raising the first three of her twelve children on board and that those were the happiest days of her life.

A Park of Contrasts

Lagan Valley Regional Park is a sensory delight.

I recall fondly our family Christmas Day walk a couple of years ago when picture postcard images came true.  We walked from Shaws Bridge a couple of miles up the towpath towards Lisburn as far as Gilchrists Bridge and returning on the other bank of the river.  In brilliant light it was an idyllic festive and sun-kissed scene, complete with an ice-covered river and a robin staking territory below snow-laden branches.  Healthy and exhilarating.  I saw a man cross-country skiing.

By contrast, every July our nasal senses are assaulted fragrantly when we visit the Sir Thomas and Lady Dixon Park to see its famous international collection of multi-coloured rose gardens.  
It’s a place where I always seem to get lost, literally and metaphorically - the idyllic escape.


©Michael McSorley 2014


[3] “If Trees Could Talk: The Story of Woodlands around Belfast.” Ben Simon (2009)

[4] Irish Times report 6 January 2010
[5] “Recognising Irish Antiquities” The Archaeological Survey of Northern Ireland (undated)
[6]“A Guide to the Lagan Canal Past Present Future” Lagan Canal Trust (undated)
[7] “The Linen Houses of the Lagan Valley." The story of their families.” Kathleen Rankin (Ulster Historical Foundation 2002)
[8] Once upon the Lagan. The Story of the Lagan Canal.” May Blair (Blackstaff Press 1981)

No comments:

Post a Comment